Midweek Escape: Ely

Our one-tank trip led my daughter and me from Duluth and up the North Shore of Lake Superior before heading inland to Ely, Minnesota. On our way we visited Split Rock Lighthouse State Park, one of the prized 66 state parks of Minnesota. Our short hike began and ended near Pebble Beach, which gave us a great excuse to relax and hunt for favorite rocks. The lighthouse, just up the beach from where we started, is maintained by the Minnesota Historical Society, which offers tours and whose extensive website is full of information about lighthouse history and technology.

Heading up the shore we turned north on to Highway 1 at Illgen City. We took our time driving the scenic route through the small communities of Finland and Isabella, winding our way through the Superior National Forest to Ely. We were hoping to see a moose along the way but had no such luck.

Ely, our mid-way stop on this one-tank trip, is, like Duluth, a familiar place, and one we keep returning to. Years ago, it served as a launch point for family skiing, hiking, and canoeing trips into the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness (BWCAW). These days, we spend more time enjoying what the town itself has to offer.

Among my favorite stops in town is Wintergreen Northern Wear, makers of distinctive, handcrafted outerwear. The cozy, functional, and beautiful jackets, vests, hats, and mittens I have collected over the past 20 years are like old friends. The signature look, with unique fabric and trims, give that up-north look that I love. Nothing is better for keeping warm on a cold snowy Minnesota day than wearing Wintergreen paired with my Steger Mukluks (also made right in Ely).

Our afternoon wander also included stops at the Crapola World Headquarters for some granola (cranberry apple!) and a cookie—well, actually two cookies since we walked out with one and then walked right back in for a second. We ended our afternoon with quick visits to Mealy’s Gift and Sauna Shop, where over the years we’ve picked up supplies for our sauna and, on this trip, locally handmade soap; Kess Gallery, whose selection of pottery, jewelry, prints, and paintings feature regional artists; and Piragis, where I always find something, whether a book from their upstairs bookshop, gear for a backcountry trip, or something fun to wear.

Across the street from Piragus, on the corner of Central and Sheridan, is a familiar mural on the side of Tony’s service station. One of more than 19 murals completed as part of the Ely Mural Walk project, it features a scene reminiscent of Ely’s proud mining history. Titled “The End of an Era,” the mural, by artist William E. Defenbaugh, was completed in 2000.

Our restful stay at The Adventure Inn was followed by a pleasant morning sitting on the porch and enjoying coffee and pastries brought in from local establishments. We had a delightful chat with Sue Edington, who, with her husband Mark, owns this eco-friendly inn. This was our first stay, and I know we will be back.

A visit to Ely isn’t complete without stopping to see the legendary Ely “Pillow Rock.” This giant boulder resting in a quiet neighborhood is a remnant of the ancient volcanic history of Ely and, as the well-worn sign proclaims, “is a rare ellipsoidal lava flow formed beneath the primeval seas 2.7 billion years ago.” Who knew?

Before leaving the area, we looked for a short hike to stretch our legs. Just five miles out of town and off Fernberg Road is the trailhead for Kawishiwi Falls, where the Kawishiwi River drops from Garden Lake to Fall Lake on its 2,000-mile voyage north to Hudson Bay. It was a sweet, easy hike and a perfect way to wrap up our morning.

After our brief visit to Ely, we headed back down Highway 1 to the North Shore, where we pulled into Tettegouche State Park for a hike to the High Falls of the Baptism River, the highest waterfall within Minnesota. After our hike under gray skies (and after being drenched by an unexpected downpour), we were ready to head north to Grand Marais.

As we move along on our one-tank trip, I’m struck by how enjoyable it is traveling not too far from home. Do you have a destination or a route you enjoy that is an easy drive from your home? We’d love to hear.